White
There is something about dust that often makes me wonder, when it blows, does it try to conceal certain acts by making us shut our eyes? And when we open them, things become hazy. You simply can’t get past that certain point without shutting your eyes again. I think dust helps to give cover to certain demons that quickly hide in some lonely and silent corners of a city. Delhi has a lot of dust in it. It’s as if Jackson Pollock is standing somewhere making it his canvas, and decides to sand paint rather than sprinkle colours from a can. Hence the demons slip in and often write their horrid stories in the city. If one day the dust decides to settle, it would perhaps keep the demons at bay. And dust makes white look a bit grey. Ask those pillars at Connaught Place, and the structures that are held by them. From afar, the dust makes them grey, but they aren't. They are white. Pristine white. If you happen to be there and look at an Elizabethan structure that feels grey, go closer and check again. See the white, they reflect the sun in a way nothing does. They dazzle your eyes, and then as you get used to them after a point, they scream at you with their whiteness. If you do not like white, look away. Look towards the footpaths or a park in the middle. But then you are better than that. After all, you have gotten out with a backpack and a camera that challenges you with its limited battery life. Stop behaving like a tourist, become a traveller. And then, look again. Look at the black iron grills that protect the windows of those white structures. Look at the pillars that stand like Atlas perhaps sheltering demons as the dust settles down. There is a certain mischief in that white. There is a certain mischief, in any white. That threat to become dirty so easily, that fear of giving away anything secretive, or the joy of getting the license to making it dirty. Also, that desire to paint something else on it. It’s like a blank page, saying come and write what you want to. Those white structures all over Delhi, give a sense of a pleasant incompleteness. “Come back soon, I can be a different colour next time. I can be different, next time.” Like how the Red Fort was white once. No one imagines it white now. Ask the Brits, they know how to change the colours of history.
Red
Red was the colour of tiny lanes that meandered in the laps of fairytales. Each one of those lanes storing a million stories of things that happened. Perhaps two centuries ago, a disgruntled boy lost a bet and gave away his favourite pony and cried at a corner of one of those lanes. At a certain turn, there was a door with a huge lock protecting a red house. There were marble stairs that lead to the door, marble which was fading slowly. They probably stored banters about the craziness of a king who kept changing the kingdom’s capital. Red was also the colour of women’s cholis, or even the shining embroidery on the borders of their burkas, as they made a ringing sound getting out for dinner on a Saturday evening. Red was the colour of freshly served chicken tandoori and the sound of crisp onion rings as you stood in a crowded lane, staring at a sombre man selling attar. The naan khatais served for you to bite on and fall in love with had a burnt red hue on them. Red was what the face of the Pathan at a restaurant became when one asked him what would he have if he had brought his family to that place. Red was also what the sun was when dawn cracked in the autumn mornings. The bells of certain cycle rickshaws were painted red. A Sardarji cleaning the roads in front of his holy place was wearing a smile in his face, and a bright red turban. And if red is the colour of love, then I think I saw a couple stealing away certain moments in the darkness of the India Gate which otherwise disappointed a lot of romantics by failing to light up that evening.
Black
Coming from Calcutta, I am used to the semi-hard magnetic paper tickets that you insert and take out in the metro gates. The coin shaped tickets that were given at the Delhi metro were new for me. And they were black with the structure of Qutab Minar etched on one side. There were a few of them in other colours as well, but I got all blacks. And I loved them. They reminded me of the Mother Dairy coins that were given to us when we were young, and we were supposed to insert them in the machine for the milk to fall into the container. The coins were black, and so was Gurgaon after evening due to power cuts. A cancelled international concert, and the wrath of the people, a very disgruntled radio jockey and a hurt Delhi-ite complaining about the cliché of misbehaved people being used as an excuse to hide inefficiency of the administration were all black. Black was the colour of the expressway at night as one sped against the early winter winds to reach a certain place on time. Black were the moods of all those people who told me they hated Delhi, and missed their homes. The yellow balloon with Appu Ghar written on it that flew high up had a black layer of dust. Hopefully people still visit it. I did long back, and have cherished it ever since. But that’s nostalgia, that’s blue.
Blue
Delhi was my gateway to the mountains when I was young. It was where I halted either very happy with the thought of all the places that I will be visiting, or crestfallen at the end of the vacation as we went back. It used to be always about bus stands and train stations, and stealing away a day to do a lot of touristy things. Visit the Lotus Temple, quickly pretend to know and understand things at the Jantar Mantar, or listen to the same story of Nehru at the Red Fort making his ‘at the stroke of midnight’ speech. Delhi was always a place where you did a lot of things that you were supposed to do, before the real fun started. As I grew up, Delhi changed for me, albeit from distance. Through the pages of history books, I discovered a Delhi that I began to love. I remembered the places I had been to as a kid and tried to relive them through the stories of those history books. Delhi was about kings and monarchs, of pigeons and wholesale shops, Delhi was about politics and old lanes and houses, was about delightful chaos and heartbreaking street food. About sounds, sights and whiffs of everything that had a drop of oldness in it. I find blue in nostalgia. And so half of Delhi was blue for me. A very sneak peak of an express train at Old Delhi station was blue, as were the sights and sounds of Kareems. One look at the Qutab Minar reminded of the times when I held dad’s hand and took steps towards it, thinking and believing that it was the tallest structure in the world. Believing that somehow, if I could go on top of it, I could see my house. Janpath and India Gate were also blue, as was the primary colour of the F1 team that won the first Indian GP. The cleanliness of New Delhi had a bluish hue in them, so did the Red Fort hiding behind buses and SUVs in mad traffic. The wall of one of the ancient houses that hid itself deep inside the inconspicuous praanthewali gali was electric blue. It made a valiant attempt to coat the age of the bricks that formed its foundation. The lungis worn by the rikshawwalas were mostly blue, as were the million chappals that happened to trade Chandni Chawk. I met people who longed for what Delhi used to be, who hated the rapid and scary urbanisation and the heartless acts of hooliganism that have become synonymous to the city, and I see them in blue. Blue was the colour of my mood as I revisited my almost forgotten memories of the city. It was the colour of the horizon that beckoned me as I drove through the roads that connected an India that I have loved.
Blue was the cleric I saw on the steps of the Jama Masjid one evening. The largest mosque of the country was starkly empty, its silhouette bordered with tiny lights. I saw him sit and stare at the sky, quietly smoking a cigarette, bringing in the night.
